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  Home > Golfio Buying Guide


 Drivers & Fairway Woods  |  Iron Sets and Individual Iron  |  Wedges  |  Putters


Driver & Fairway Woods are mainly used for longer shots in golf. Buying driver & fairway woods are not as complicated as many people try to make it. You must consider 3 main variables and apply them to your own golf game.

SHAFT: When it comes to choosing the right driver for you, the club shaft is just as important as the Club Head Size. The shaft plays a critical part in distance and direction and selecting the proper flex for your swing is key. Graphite shafts tend to be lighter than steel shafts. If you are looking for more distance, graphite is probably the way to go. For most players, graphite is the best option in the driver and fairway woods, simply distance is your most important concern. Steel shaft is stronger, more durable and generally less expensive. Steel shafts are recommended for stronger players who could use a little extra control in their game.

CLUB HEAD SIZE: Larger driver has more surface area on the clubface, typically resulting in larger sweet spot. Fairway woods often have smaller, lower profile leads to allow them to be used in less then perfect lies more easily. Currently the size limit of driver club head is 460cc. The larger head size makes the club more forgiving and a better choice for most golfers.

LOFT: Loft is the initial angle at which the shot leaves the clubface. The higher the loft on the club, the higher the ball will travel, and you will get less roll. Loft also relates to forgiveness; the higher lofted the club, the less likely you are to hook and slice the ball because the ball has more backspin the sidespin. So, while lower loft clubs give you more distance, they should only be considered by better players who can afford to give up the accuracy.

GOLFIO TIPS:

  • There are five general levels of flex in shafts: L (Ladies), A (Senior), Regular, Stiff (Firm), X-stiff (Strong).
  • An average player with a swing speed of 75-90 mph, should look for a regular shaft.
  • Choose the most flexible shaft you can control. If you're in between regular and a stiff flex, go with regular
  • Fairway woods are increasingly popular as an alternative to both drivers off the tee and to hard-to-hit long irons such as the 2,3,4 irons.
  • Here are the simple guide to replacing a long iron with fairway woods:
    1. 5-wood => 2 iron
    2. 7 wood => 3,4 iron
    3. 9 wood => 5 iron
  • Unless you're a pro, a basic rule of thumb is to choose a driver with at least 9 or 10 degrees of loft.
  • Generally, a club head loft is between 8-12 degrees. The slower you swing the club, the higher loft you will need.
    1. Slow swing = 10.5 - 12 degree loft
    2. Average swing = 9.5 - 10.5 degree loft
    3. Fast swing = 8 - 9.5 degree loft


Irons are used for short golf shots, ranging from 200 yards to less than 100 yards. When purchasing an iron set, you should first ask yourself what your priorities are. Do you want more forgiveness or feel? Do you want to be able to work your shots easier? Theses question will help you decide which set is best for your game.

DESIGN: There are two main types of irons: cavity-back and blade-style iron. Cavity-back irons also called game improvement irons, and are in the hands of many golfers of all skill levels. They are designed to distribute the weight away from the center of the clubface, thus producing a larger sweet spot. This means that less then perfect contact with the ball can still generate a more than acceptable shot. Blade-style irons have full back with no special weight distribution. This makes them less forgiving on mis-hits, due to the smaller sweet spot.

SHAFT: You will find iron shafts offered in either steel or graphite material. In general, steel shafts are stronger and more durable than graphite shafts. Steel shafts offers more control, but require a faster swing speed to generate the same distance as graphite. Graphite shafts are lighter than steel and can be made in many more variations. Its lighter weight offers greater swing speed for more power and distance, but it does sacrifice control. This makes graphite shafts a perfect choice for the beginner, and average golfer.

FLEX: Flex refers to the amount of "bend" in a shaft. Generally a softer shaft will produces longer shots but with less control. Conversely, a stiffer shaft will often improve accuracy but will impact distance. The key is to find the most flexible shaft that you can swing under control, yet one that produces maximum distance. Many steel shafts are now available in a uniflex that will fit most any golfers swing.

GOLFIO TIPS:

  • If you are a high-handicap player who has trouble finding the sweet spot, go with a cavity-back iron.
  • Struggling to hit your long irons? Consider using hybrid woods, which give you the forgiveness of fairway woods with the control and accuracy of irons.
  • Steel shafts are recommended for stronger players who could use a little extra control in their game.
  • An average player has a swing speed of 75-90 mph, should look for regular shaft.

The wedges are used primarily for shorter shots and touch shots around the green.

Nowadays many players carry as many as four wedges in their bag to combat every possible situation.

If you carry just the old faithful pitching wedge, chances are you're missing out on some great ways to reduce your score.

There are four types of wedges with different lofts.

PITCHING WEDGE:
This club has typically 45 - 49° loft and is used for longer approach shots, about 90 - 100 years. Because it's most often hit from the grass, it has minimal bounce (2-5°). In fact, a higher bounce would be undesirable in this club, because it would make it more difficult to get the leading edge under the ball, causing you to skull it.
GAP WEDGE:
This club has typically 49 - 54° loft and is used for shots of about 95 - 100 yards. Bounce is typically 5 - 12 °. Choose a gap wedge with loft that divides the "gap" evenly between your pitching and sand wedges. For instance, if you have a 48° PW and a 56° SW, choose a gap wedge with 52° loft. This club is also known as a "dual" wedge [DW] or "attack" wedge [AW].
SAND WEDGE:
This club has typically 54 -57° loft and is used for shots of about 80 - 90 yards maximum. It also has the most unique clubhead of the bounce, with lots of bounce (10 - 16°) and another feature called hee-toe camber. This is what gives the sand wedge an oval shape on the bottom of the face.
  LOB WEDGE:
This club has 57° loft or more and is used for shots of about 60 - 65 yards maximum. These clubs, also called "touch" shots around the green that need to get into the air quickly and land softly. Bounce is minimal (1-10°), because in these situation there is generally very little room under the ball, and a tiny error can make the club bounce off the ground and cause a skulled shot. The ball flies short and high with this club.

LOFTS: Wedge lofts can get very confusing since there are so many to choose from, and since we can carry 14 clubs in the bag. As a general rule, you should space your lofts out to cover the most area. For example, many players will carry 3 wedges in addition to their pitching wedge - a gap wedge for for fairway shots (50 - 54 degree), a sand wedge (55 - 58 degrees), and a lob wedge (58 - 64 degree). The spacing is dependent on your game, so have an idea of what yardage you are trying to cover before you start looking into wedges. 4 to 5 degrees of spacing between clubs is usually optimal.

BOUNCE: Bounce is the angle on a wedge from the leading edge to the back portion of the sole. Sand wedge typically have more bounce so that the club bounces into the ball rather than digging into the sand. The softer the area you are hitting from, the more bounce becomes useful because it makes it harder to hit 'fat' shots. when the majority of your shots are player from firmer lies, bounce actually becomes a problem. A wedge's overall bounce determines how the wedge will react with the sand or turf.

FINISHES: Unlike all other clubs, wedges come in a variety of finishes. Not just intended for cosmetic preference, different finishes also offers different performance benefits.
  • Black - Helps reduce glare and helps frame the ball tat address.
  • Chrome - A popular choice for traditional tastes, it's exceptionally soft, yet durable.
  • Bronze - Adds responsiveness with an extremely soft feel.
  • Rust - Creates increased spin and will rust after use for a unique non-glare look at address.
GOLFIO TIPS:
  • If you have problems getting out of the sand, make sure to use a wedge with plenty of bounce.
  • Try to keep an incremental amount of loft between your wedges (i.e. 52°, 56°, 60° or 54°, 58°, 62°).

There is nothing more personal to a golfer than his or her putter is.

Golfers of all levels live or die by their putting ability, and the choice of a putter is as much by personal preference of style, look and weight as it is by technology.

There are, however, certain guidelines that can help in your selection of a putter.

The basic types of putters are as follow:

BLADES:
Narrow and flat, there putters are popular among low-handicap players due to their enhanced feel. The shaft of blade putters enters more in the middle of the blade compared to other types.
MALLETS:
Featuring a large, round club-head, the weight of mallet putters is usually balanced throughout the head for a more consistent putting stroke.
PERIMETER WEIGHTED:
A very forgiving design, the perimeter weighting distributes the weight around the edges of the club-head. This creates a larger sweet spot that helps stabilize any slight mis-hits.
  INSERT:
Designed with composite inserts, insert putters offer a great feel on the putt and a smooth roll.
OFFSET:
The actual blade of these putters in placed slightly back from the shaft. This allows your hands to lead the stroke for more consistent putts.

GOLFIO TIPS:

Having difficulties keeping your putts in line? Choose a putter with a large alignment aid.

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